Demystifying Holley Terminator and Sniper Ignition Hookup

Control modules[ edit ] There are three basic types of HEI control modules, the four-pin, five-pin, and seven-pin modules. The four-pin module was used on conventional carbureted engines and uses conventional mechanical timing controls vacuum and centrifugal advance mechanisms. The five-pin module was introduced in and was an early attempt at electronic timing control. The five-pin module contains a provision for connecting a knock sensor. The seven-pin module is used on early computer -controlled engines. The seven-pin module contains no mechanical timing control mechanisms as the computer controls ignition timing. Late ‘s GM cars and trucks used a slim distributor cap HEI with a separate ignition coil on throttle body injection equipped engines. These distributors were not stand-alone units because they did not contain mechanical timing controls. Upgrading[ edit ] HEI distributors are a popular swap on older GM cars originally equipped with points and condenser type ignition systems.

Everything You Wanted to Know About Vacuum Advance and Ignition Timing

Building a Stereo Tube Amp Ever wanted to build a highly dangerous, inefficient, yet awesomely retro piece of electronics? That’s pretty much what a tube amp is. Vacuum tubes are old electronic components that act like transistors, controlling a lot of current with a little current.

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Oct 24,  · In the 70’s, with the onset of emission standards, the source for the vacuum advance unit was moved to a source above the throttle plates, so a vacuum signal was only present when the throttle blades were opened, thereby reducing emission readings at idle.

In the mid-’70s, leaner mixtures demanded greater voltage and more spark energy to kick off combustion. The HEI distributor is still an inductive-discharge ignition, but exchanges points for an electronic device called a module. Since this system produces more voltage and amperage output than a point-type ignition, it requires a larger-diameter cap to prevent voltage crossfire inside the distributor cap. The large cap also offers extra space to host the coil, making the HEI distributor self-contained.

All you have to do is to apply a volt hot lead to the distributor and you’re ready for the road. Early HEIs were infamous for giving up at speeds above 5, rpm-so many avoided them. This was true of the early-model distributors, but it didn’t take GM long to modify the modules and coils to offer greatly increased spark energy at higher engine speeds. These days there’s a plethora of aftermarket high-performance modules, coils, and complete ready-to-run HEI distributors that can be added to a high-performance engine that’ll provide excellent spark energy and rpm potential well in excess of 7, rpm.

During the early years of HEI use there morphed a bunch of, well, we’ll call ’em myths in regards to these systems-some possibly true, some blatantly false, and some open to interpretation. The following are the 10 most common, along with some views, which are believed to dispel them. Take a look and see what you think. Inductive ignitions, like HEI – High Energy Ignitions, aren’t as good for high performance engines and racing motors as CD-capacitive discharge ignitions.

Demystifying Holley Terminator and Sniper Ignition Hookup

The FI version has a blind hole near intake 3 for the temp sensor II. If you use this head as part of your engine project you don’t have to worry about the hole because it’s blind. If you have the head from the 74 bus, then you’ll notice two holes on either side of the intakes. These are not breather openings to vent pressure from behind the valve cover. They are air injection holes to allow oxygen to be introduced into the exhaust stream to help burn unburned mixture after burning.

Two tubes were hooked up to those ports which lead to an air pump that way driven off the pulley.

Some motors will idle too fast/rough at manifold vacuum, in which case you will need to connect your vacuum advance to ported vacuum. Myth 6: There is a specific #1 terminal on the distributor cap.

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Vacuum Pump – Microns/HG???

Reply I may the only person in the world that followed Holley’s suggestion to remove extra wires from 2 harnesses provided but now I find that I cannot go back. By that I mean originally I wired for a standard points system and since moved to a mag distributor and want the sniper to control timing. There is no information about color and placement that I can find.

Certain questions come up all the time on the various discussion boards, particularly theSamba’s popular Baywindow is a FAQ made up from my replies to those topics and from some others in no particular order to get new owners up to speed.

Feared by many, and ignored by many more, the vacuum advance can is an important component of your ignition platform that offers both performance and economy. Leaving it unplugged is akin to throwing free engine efficiency straight down the drain. To fully understand why the vacuum advance can is a necessity in any street-going car, we need to dive into spark timing as a whole and cover some ignition basics.

Why do I need ignition advance at all? In a theoretical world, air and fuel in a combustion chamber burn instantaneously as the spark plug ignites them, sending the piston downward in the bore and producing horsepower. What actually happens is that the air and fuel mixture take time to burn. If the spark plug were fired at true top dead center 0 degrees in crank revolution , the piston could be well on its way to bottom dead center — maybe even past it and onto the exhaust stroke — before combustion of the air and fuel was completed.

That would make for an engine that was horribly inefficient and made terrible power. So, in order to give the fuel mixture adequate time to burn, we start the fire early, before top dead center TDC occurs. You know this process as ignition advance. Most engines have between degrees of ignition advance at idle.

Vacuum Pumps Exhaust Filters

You will get far superior results that way. It sounds like that pump you are looking at is perfect, and will probably be perfectly happy running constantly – all the good quality ones can. But running constantly requires a bleed valve, and bleed valves don’t adjust themselves to changes in your bag pressure! If your bag springs a leak, the pressure will drop, and there is nothing in the system that compensates for it.

Believe me, this does happen!

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HEI Ignition Tips for Your Engine


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